May 18, 2011. When you look at Cleveland, it’s hard to imagine it being anything else than the run-down structures and vacant lots that fill up most of its streets today. It’s hard to imagine that some of America’s biggest millionaires once lived down Euclid in grand old mansions and it’s even harder to imagine what went through their heads when they tore them all down. It’s hard to believe that there use to be an amusement park here or that there was a hippodrome or great exposition or people flocking to go to the Elysium. Michael DeAlhoia, author of Lost Cleveland: Seven Wonders of the Sixth City, gives us seven structures that were both monumental and landmark achievements, all of which but one have vanished from the streets of Cleveland.
The only remaining wonder of the city is Severance Hall, home of the Cleveland Orchestra. Founded in 1918, the Orchestra had

Severance Hall Today
spent most of its time battling out for rehearsal space at the Grays Armory, which though impressive and elegant, was overbooked and ill-fitting for an orchestra. Adella Prentiss Hughes, who had founded the Musical Arts Association in 1915 and three years later the Cleveland Orchestra with the soon-to-be first conductor Nikolai Sofoloff, realized that an orchestra of this scale and prestige needed a grander stage and by 1929 had been granted a dollar-a-year land lease from the Western Reserve University where, along with the help of Dudley S. Blossom, built Severance Hall. John Long Severance’s million-dollar donation to the hall ensured its grandeur and timely completion even despite the Great Depression. The building still stands proudly today as the home of the one of the world’s finest orchestras.

Elysium Postcard
However, the remaining six “wonders” of Cleveland have been demolished and forgotten. The

Indoor Ice-Rink
first wonder was called the Elysium and was built as a source of indoor entertainment for when the parks and beaches closed during the winter. It was opened in 1907 at the corner of East 107th and Euclid Ave., where today stands parts of Case Western Reserve University, the Cleveland Clinic, and the University Hospital, which back then was called “Doan’s Corner.” Opposite of the beaches, the Elysium housed America’s first permanent concrete ice rink floor, invented by Dudley Humphrey, where people could skate, watch ice shows and hockey games, and listen to rink-side music concerts. Up until the 1930s, the Cleveland Barons hockey team played there. However, lack of spectator space (it could only seat about 2,000 fans) forced the Barons to relocate to a new arena in 1937. After that, the building switched hands time and time again until in 1951 in order to widen Chester Road. That old line about paving paradise to put up a parking lot floats through my mind as I think about the once beautiful structure now flattened and erased from memories.

Hippodrome
The demise of the Elysium is similar to the fate of the Hippodrome Theater. The remaining theaters of Cleveland are few: the Ohio, the Palace, the State, the Hanna, the Allen, and a few smaller ones dotted here and there. However back in the early 1900s, there were ten other major theaters and opera houses – the biggest and grandest being the Hippodrome, or more affectionately known as the “Hipp.” One of the largest theaters outside of New York, the Hipp boasted seating for 4,500, hydraulic lifts on the stage, a 455,000 gallon water tank located beneath the stage available for water sports, a thirteen ton, completely fireproof drop curtain, a proscenium arch that extends forrty-five feet beyond the edge of the stage to act as a amplifier, and a stage itself of 13,528 square feet area. The Hippodrome was completed in 1907, taking up much of the eleven-story building it occupied and surrounding block with lobbies, private hotels and dressing rooms for the actors, and stables for the show animals. However, the Great Depression hit the Hippodrome hard, and it passed into many hands all the while rapidly-declining. It even shortly passed into the hands of Warner Brothers before it was sold again to the Telenews Chains who had no interest in reinvesting in it. However, by 1972 the Hipp was the last movie house in Cleveland and its last owner had closed down the offices above the Hipp, whose revenues were insufficient to maintain the building. When years passed with nothing to save the magnificent theater, it was torn down in 1981 and replaced with a parking lot.

Luna Park
While the Elysium and Hippodrome provided indoor entertainment, Luna Park was the perfect way to spend an afternoon. One of five amusement parks within Cleveland’s city limits, Luna Park along with Euclid Beach, White City, Puritas Springs Park, and Gordon Gardens, offered attractions and rides for small fees. While all of the attractions and rides of the parks have now closed, a few of the actual parks still remain while others have been claimed as other businesses: Euclid Park, which closed in 1969, is now part of the Euclid Beach State Park; White City, which closed after a massively destructive storm in 1907, is now the site of the Easterly Sewage Disposal Plant; Puritas Springs Park on the west side was closed after two severe fires, the first in 1946 and

Luna Park
the second in 1958; Gordon Gardens, with the main roller coaster called the Big Dipper, caught fire in 1927 and is now part of the Shoreway and Lakefront State Park. Luna Park was opened in 1905 as a close copy to Coney Island with fantastic light displays and use of Japanese, Italian Renaissance, Egyptian, and Gothic architecture. Along with amusement rides, there was an airship that stunned the visitors, boxing matches, dancing competitions – especially in the 1920s – and Labor Day celebrations. Eventually the park also had a Casino with food and arcades and, unlike their fierce competitor Euclid Beach, Luna Park served beer and also stayed open all the way to midnight. There was also a baseball park and a football stadium and a motorcycle racecourse. However, Prohibition in the 1920s removed the biggest source of revenue for Luna Park, which held on until the Great Depression swept its last leg out from underneath it. Luna Park was dismantled finally in 1931 and is now the site of public housing.

Great Lakes Exposition Poster
However, perhaps the crowning achievement of amusement in Cleveland was the Great Lakes Exposition in 1936. The Exposition was to celebrate both Cleveland’s centennial as well as to honor the eight states that bordered a Great Lake together referred to as the Rust Belt. The fair was designed to run for only 100 days in 1936, but its success encouraged its second opening in 1937. Spanning from West 3rd Street to East Twentieth, the Exposition offered daily concerts, G.E. Lighting offered magical light displays and shows – one which displayed the world’s largest lightbulb (50,000 watts) – as well as the four main events of the exposition. The Hall of Progress, the Automotive Building, the Horticulture Building, and the Marine Theater were all housed in

Exposition as seen from the Air
magnificent structures; the first two showed off new technologies of the future, especially from the Ohio Bell Telephone company while White Motor Company showcased its own line of products such as trucks and buses. The Horticulture Building had 3.5 acres of plants right along the lakefront, which had recently been widen and extended out into the water for the Exposition itself, and boasted a gigantic fountain that projected colorful rays of light through the water jets. The gardens remained even after the Exposition ended until they were destroyed to make way for the Browns Stadium. Great ships docked in the harbors, other states showcased displays along the streets, such as Florida’s display of oranges and palm trees, amusement rides circled the grounds, Hollywood performers like Fred Astaire, Shirley Temple, and other comedians as well as jazz performers and Olympic athletes toured. Spectators observed 30-foot monsters, monkey auto-races, and snake shows. Latest fashions were on display and many people saw their first TV during the Exposition or watched plays including many abridged Shakespeare plays. However, the party had to come to an end eventually, and, with a crowd belting out the song Auld Lang Syne, the Exposition closed on September 26, 1937.

Superior Viaduct
The loss of the Superior Viaduct marked one of the great tragedies of magnificent feats of

Veterans Bridge, background; Viaduct, foreground
engineering. The bridge was designed to connect Ohio City to Cleveland for commerce in 1875 but also as way to operate the growing trolley lines. The bridge itself was a marvel: the western portion of the bridge spanned 1,380 feet over the bank with ten sandstone arches where it met in the middle a 332-foot rotating center that connected to the eastern portion. When boats would sail down the river, the center would swivel to turn parallel with river so they ships could pass. While the bridge was designed to help trade across the river, the amount of time that cars and

One of the remaining arches
pedestrians would have to wait as the middle portion pivoted to let ships pass became increasingly annoying and the demand soon grew for a second bridge. After forty years of service, the Veterans Memorial Bridge was built as the first fixed bridge to span the river with two decks, allowing traffic to go on top while the street cars remained below in 1917. This helped unclog the traffic yet by 1920 however, the Superior Viaduct was officially closed and torn down. The city had outgrown the architectural feat.

Andrew's Home
The last and final lost “wonder” of Cleveland is by far the most symbolic of the decline of the city as a whole. If you were to drive down Euclid Avenue now, you would not realize that this street was once Millionaire’s Row and boasted the grandest and most elaborate mansions of Cleveland’s industrial giants. With a neighbor like John D. Rockefeller, Samuel Andrew of Standard Oil sought to build a bigger house that Rockefeller’s on Euclid, which also housed names like Mather, Wade, Severance, Gund, and Hanna. Then, it was nationally known as the “most beautiful street in America.” Andrew, after selling off his investments of Standard Oil for only a measly one million compared to Rockefeller’s soon-to-be billions, hired architect George Horatio Smith to build a house that would impress Queen Victoria so much that she would stop by and visit (Andrews was born in England.) The house had thirty-three rooms, three floors with the third floor having a ball room, and needed over a hundred servants to maintain it. The family moved out two years after the construction was finished. Andrew’s son, Horace, too resident in the house after 1904 but found the house simply unlivable and left the house for the cockroaches. After fifty years of vacancy, the house was torn down in 1923. Sadly however, Andrew’s home was not the only one with a similar fate: Rockefeller’s home was torn down in the 1930s and replaced with a gas station and parking lot, and likewise very few other mansions remain on Euclid anymore. If they are still there, they are hidden among giant warehouses and ugly buildings, or have been nearly abandoned.
If you wondering why I’m giving you this giant history lesson, it’s because to understand Cleveland, you have to know what once was. The biggest mistake Cleveland made was tearing all those houses down, and the amusement parks and theaters, and the bridges. It demolished some of the most important facets of Cleveland and of the city’s history and by doing so only hurt itself in the long run. Where other cities like Boston and Washington D.C. and Philadelphia seem to have a stable focusing point around their historical architecture and city, Cleveland has lost focus and because of it has had to start rebuilding all over again. Because it was such a industrial giant, the city was subjected to this strange urge to build immediately what was in demand – a new bridge, wider roads – and to tear down what was in the way. It doesn’t let anything remain as a memorial of it’s origins, but gives it up for the common good. Yet now the city is left with nothing: empty warehouses which could have been beautiful mansions, parking lots which were once amusements parks, concrete roads which were once nationally-renowned theaters and buildings. It’s the worm that’s bitten its own tail. Luckily, Cleveland has learned. Instead of tearing down great warehouses, they’ve been converted into lofts and apartments and stores, in what is now the Warehouse district. If we destroy our past, we’re left with nothing because in the end, it’s the past that we remember the most.
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